It’s a day before Christmas and we’re on our way in the very comfy bus trying so hard to sleep listening to the rhythms of snores from the guy sitting two seats ahead! The bus had started off at about 6:30 p.m. from the Bangkok Southern Bus Terminal. Mission: Finding Nemo! Destination: Mu Ko Surin! A marine national park, located 70 km offshore in the South of Thailand and famous for excellent diving and snorkeling.
By 5.30 a.m. on Christmas day, we were at Khuraburi where we got our breakfast and wash-up at the Barracuda Diving center, located close to the pier. It was here the entire group of 13 met up; 8 of us from the Asian Institute of Technology and the remaining 5 were friends of Ann from Bangkok. A jolly group of friends we became just looking forward to the oncoming adventures of having a good time.
At this point, I must say that we had enough luggage consisting of food supplies, especially drinks and snacks and it was almost like we were going to sell groceries at the deserted island! Even at Khuraburi, we stocked up on ice, water and more food! We had this big rectangular cooler that needed the two hefty guys to carry around.
We went to the pier where we got on the speed (I mean SPEED!) boat heading to the Island. The journey, one and a half hours, was quite a bumpy one! This was most probably ‘cos of the speed and the waves of course.
On getting close to the Island, the boat slows down as we are amazed at the clear blue waters which border the entire island. It was a blend of blue that’s only captured by your natural eyes and not through lenses of a camera.
On arrival, we were so excited to be allocated to tents and with an instant change of clothes, we were in the blue waters with snorkeling gear. Shallow waters it was, so I personally wasn’t scared but rather felt so peaceful just floating on the water and actually swimming with the fish. At first, I was able to see the little incy white and grey ones but as we got further I did see colorful ones. Without being aware of the increasing depth I was swimming further away in pursuit of fish. With the currents getting stronger I knew it was time to turn back towards the shore and this I did with difficulty as it was a task of swimming against the current. Finally got my foot on the ground and literally walked back to safer waters!
With a sweaty afternoon nap, dangerous nature trail and a spicy dinner, every one turned in early as we had an early start the following day. With time being confirmed by Ann in both Thai and English as 8:30 a.m. we watched a documentary on Ko Surin which really got our desire for the water world rising…. It was incredibly BEAUTIFUL!
Sunday morning and I’m up so early to the sounds of other ‘islanders’. I still couldn’t figure out why they were up as early as 5:30 in the morning! Maybe to avoid the queue at the showers? Or just early birds? I don’t know but I did learn that the view from the tent in the early hours of the morning was so peaceful. The sound of the waves was just soothing enough and its motion kept you gazing forever and ever. And so I was staring until our neighbors woke up as well.
A quick shower and breakfast provided by Baracuda Diving was more than enough to get me going. The sunrise from the East end of the Island filtered through the trees and was making the clear blue waters even brighter than what we’d seen the previous day. We spent half an hour just taking photographs.
I went back to the tent to keep the camera and pick up my hat. Only dressed in a swim suit and wrap-round skirt, I was ready for an adventure. Little did I know that it was going to be a more-than-one-day adventure.
We also noticed with envy, the popular singer at the beach with whom every female islander wanted to be photographed!
We left off on a little boat just enough to accommodate the 13 of us and it took the path around the island and was in deep waters within a couple of minutes. I do have to admit that the further we got away from the island and towards deep waters, my adrenalin was flowing at faster rates than normal! Anyhow, the boat stopped at some point and we were told that we’d be given half and hour to forty minutes for snorkeling.
Getting into water bodies in which my foot doesn’t touch the ground isn’t my specialty so it did take me time to get used to dangling-feet-in-water and the life jacket. It just occurred to me that life did depend on this rightly called life jacket! My first peek into the waters was scary enough! WHY? I didn’t see the bottom!!! I had to get back on to the boat to calm myself and readjust my life jacket to fit. With a little bit of added confidence and life jacket in place, I went in again… after all, there was also another lady in the group who couldn’t swim at all.
My fear was however all gone when I saw the corals which were more like from a colored post card. Not only were they big and colorful, they were for real! Of course they’re real, you’ll say! I wish we could have stayed more than half an hour looking at the corals and fish too! WOW… they were so many! And can you imagine swimming with fish? Right at their own village??? I saw Dori tooo and boy wasn’t she pretty blue? I don’t think she’d remember where Nemo was hiding out or else we could have asked her to guide us there!
Snorkeling in Mu Ko Surin has been stated as being excellent by the Lonely Planet as due to its relatively shallow reef depths of 5 to 6 m.
Our next drop off was at waters close to the remotely located small island quite far from the camping island. We were told that there was a lobster colony at this point. We got in enthusiastically looking for lobsters but didn’t see any. With no success of finding lobsters, we were speculating on the easier route of finding lobsters at the restaurant kitchen! I however saw a fish that swam on its sides! Hmmm… how do I put this: I could see the entire body of the fish while it was swimming!
Going further on searching for lobsters, we could only see debris floating at the bottom over the gigantic corals. There was definitely some disturbance down under. On coming up for a breather, all what was heard was that everyone snorkeling should come back on board. Another boat came by and we were picked up on that in an emergency situation. We weren’t told what was happening at the moment. Some even thought that a shark was around the corner!
About 4 fishing boats picked all those snorkeling around the island and took us far away as possible and as fast as they could, always looking back and forward as were now in between three islands. Right there in the middle of the sea.
All what the boatmen could tell us was that there was an order to get people out of the water as there was a disturbance underwater. Something was definitely wrong they said. They’ve never experienced such phenomena.
With some distance from the island, our own boat came by and we all shifted in there and were together until we saw the Barracuda Diving speed boats came to get us all off the 4 different boats. Each person was carefully lifted to the speed boats, especially the children and the elderly. All the other boats only floated by and all we could do was circle around as there was no way to go near the islands. The waves were too strong and the anger of the underwater waves were pretty unpredictable.
It was on this speed boat that I developed a bad headache as I was under direct sunlight and the boat was swaying too much. I also started to get the feeling of sea sickness all of a sudden. As Barracuda Diving personnel had a box of medication, I asked for some anti-vomiting pills. I was also given a bandage to put on my navel as I was told that it also prevents such sickness. Unfortunately I couldn’t stick this on as directed as I had a one piece swimsuit on me!
I also discovered that the speed boat had a ‘rest-room’. I was warned that there’d be a hole directly to the sea water so I was holding up until I couldn’t any more. I opened the door and was impressed to see a toilet seat not opening into the sea. BUT, only problem with this cubicle was that it was meant for an Asian 5 year old! For me to use it, I had to bend a good 90 degrees to get in through the doors and still be more flexible to actually use it. This would be my prefect definition of an inconvenient inconvenience!
Those standing and out under the sun on the speed boats were then moved to another boat which came closer to pick us up. I moved on to this boat with another 3 from my group and some others as well. We moved further away from the speed boat and went out to calmer waters and joined up with 4 more boats. A total of about 6 boats were tied up together in a row and we were kept company by the boat men who were really friendly and expressed their amazement at a sight which was a first in their life time. We kept looking at the shores of the islands where the waves were doing their best in damage!
While in the boat, those who wished to use the inconvenience had only to go half way into the water and hang onto the boat! This was more convenient than the one at the speed boat! As the afternoon sun kept reminding us of hurting heads, we were also reminded by the rumbles in our abdomens of the hunger for food. The boatmen took it upon themselves to take care of us. It was then coffee was served in half cut plastic water bottles and then lunch! Boiled rice with canned sardine! The boatmen also cut me a lime to help my dizziness and sea sickness.
With almost an hour in the boat, the speed boat came closer to pick us up. The waves seem to be calmer they said and thus, we could go through. So, saying our best thanks to the boat men, we got back on our speed boat and there started the rough journey over the waves.
The waves underneath seems to be angry, those on top seemed troubled. The sailors had no idea of what was going on. All they had to pray for was that they make it through, in between the islands and onto calmer waters. As we get closer to the islands, the waters seem to be getting whiter as the sands were now also involved in this great argument. We see floating bag packs, timbers, float boards and much more that served as enough proof of the non-existence of our tents and belongings therein.
We passed by and there were no longer tents on the beach, rather, debris washed down from up hill and some people were trickling down towards the beach as they searched on for belongings. We weren’t able to see any of our tents which were lined up along the beach, there was nothing there! And going around the island, we notice that the ‘Mu Ko Surin Naitonal Park’ board was no longer there. We were also told by the Barracuda Diving staff that the cafeteria and information center were also down and longer existent. This I’m yet to confirm.
We kept going forward and away from the island, the speed boat was having a hard time making it through. We could only hear the bottom of the boat being hit by God-knows-what. We finally made it out of the rough waters and we were then transferred to a ‘double-decker’ boat where there were more people who had been picked up from around the island and also those who were coming in to the island and never got there.
This boat kept floating until Longlom, a Thai Navy battle ship, came along and picked 134 of us from the boat. It was on its way to Surin and it was only then were we informed of the earthquake in Indonesia. My mind went to 2 friends who’d left for Indonesia just three days before and I was only praying that they hadn’t left the mainland to the Islands.
With lunch on the Navy ship, convenient restrooms and lovely sea breeze blowing through my hair, I look onward to the horizon, listening to the Ship doctor tell me of the events of the day. 2 ships had been deployed to various islands to pick up survivors. The worst hit was Phuket and Phi Phi we’re told. I am thankful to be standing there on a ship heading to mainland whereas there were still others stranded on the islands. We were lucky to have been in the deep waters and not on the islands where the waves would have certainly washed us away. What if it had happened the previous day when we were snorkeling in shallow waters without life jackets?
Oh well, there was a lot of time to ponder and reflect on life in general. There’s nothing more important than to preserve our life. After all, what’s a mobile phone or digital camera or passport; they’re all replaceable, aren’t they? 2 members of our group, mind you, complained of loosing their brand new underwear worth thousands of Baht, specially bought for the trip! (No names mentioned!!!)
Well, our trip package had certainly included sunrise on the earthquake day at Mu Ko Surin, lunch with fishermen on fishing boats, sailing on 5 boats, toilet facilities in 4 modes of transportation and sunset on a Thai Navy battleship. And most importantly, new friends and life!
After having spent 13 hours at sea on 5 different boats ranging from the smallest to the largest, we got to land at about 10 p.m. in the night.
At Ranong, we were able to dock at the harbor after 3 attempts and we could see the Television crew and ambulances waiting. Applause from the well wishers down there welcomed us to Ranong. We were then taken by bus, organized by Barracuda diving to the Ranong provincial office where food and water was waiting. Shortly thereafter, half the group went on to accommodation for the night while I and a few others headed to the Police station to report missing passports and ID cards.
It was only at the Police Station that I was able to see the CNN reports which were really saddening and made us realize how lucky we were to be standing there, alive and watching the devastation on other Islands. It was then that I also realized what my parents at home must be going through watching such reports! I immediately borrowed a friend’s phone and called home. Mum was really anxious and I was told that they’ve been making attempts to reach me some how, directly or through friends. With my Mum being informed of my state, I was able to relax a bit.
We stopped at a 7-11 to get toiletries and headed straight for the accommodation by Police pick-up. We were being accommodated at the Ranong Health Center where the matrons made sure that we were comfortable. Patients’ clothing were given to us along with tooth brushes and towels for a wash-up. Tea and coffee was also readily available. It was way past midnight now and we had an early start the following day. I could still feel myself swaying although I was now on stable ground!
The following morning, with a splendid breakfast, a quick update on TV, shower and yellow T-shirts, the Health Center personnel took us to the Bus station. Luckily Ann had some cash on her to pay for the tickets back to Bangkok. Once the bus arrived, the conductor opened the lower luggage compartment and we could only laugh at our possessions at the time. We only remembered how much we started off with and now, we go back with our lives. This is better, isn’t it?
We all separated at the Bus station and with a long ride to AIT due to the traffic, I was left with the task of obtaining a spare set of keys. (This is another long story altogether!) I ran into the arms of Rush and Hans, had dinner at their place, also had another dinner at the Cottage with Pinky and finally tried to sleep! Couldn’t!
Anyway, that’s the long and short(!) of it. There’s a lot to be thankful for. There’s a lot to ponder about and most importantly, there’s a lot more people out there who we must pray for. Can we really count down to the New Year when there are people out there who are ‘counting up’ the number of deaths? Rather, let’s pray for the families who have lost their loved ones in the Asian Tsunami.
Yet, I wonder, in this new age of satellites and technological development, could there have been no prediction?
At that point, I almost thought of turning back... but thought I'd politely ask if we could join them and they said ok!
Wow!... I don't think I have the words to describe that here! It was an amazing 45 seconds! I wish we could have gone another round!!!
and was half an hour late! The driver and the other teacher were waiting in the van... with a definite HBP! 
Mai pen rai. Take a taxi… go back to Dorm and pick us again at the gate!
and ask where she is! She tells me she’s still flying kites! God! Is she nuts or something??!!?? I thought she was damned serious and she thought I was playing a joke! Yeah, right!!!
Luckily we came on the first train so we could always catch the second train which would leave in one and a half hours time!
